Visitors from the Past

For centuries the Scots have offered a warm welcome to visitors wanting to enjoy the country’s history and heritage. Some recorded their thoughts about the country in letters, journals and books. Nowadays it is fascinating to look back on the experiences of those who toured Scotland before a tourism industry had developed to cater for their needs.

In fact, it was the likes of eighteenth century travel writer Thomas Pennant and the extraordinary Dorothy Wordsworth in the early nineteenth century who helped popularise the country as a destination. Below are a quotes from a variety of people about a selection of the sites included in our Following in the Family Footsteps trails. Some show that the country has changed enormously with the passing of time, others suggest that a remarkable amount remains the same.

Edinburgh Castle

“The castle is ancient, but strong, placed on the summit of the hill, at the edge of a very deep precipice. Strangers are shewn a very small room in which Mary Queen of Scots was delivered of James VI.”
Thomas Pennant, 1772, English writer and traveller whose books were widely read – the Rough Guides of their day

“Arrived at Edinburgh a little before sunset. As we approached, the Castle rock resembled that of Stirling – in the same manner appearing to rise from a plain of cultivated ground …”
Dorothy Wordsworth, 1803, who toured the country with her brother William, the poet, and for some of the time with Samuel Taylor Coleridge

The official Edinburgh Castle website is at www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk

Stirling Castle

“Long before we reached the town of Stirling, saw the Castle, single, on its stately and commanding eminence.”
Dorothy Wordsworth, 1803

“From the top of the castle is the finest view in Scotland: to the east is a vast plain, rich in corn, adorned with woods, and watered with the river Forth, whose meanders are, before it reaches the sea, so frequent and so large, as to form a multitude of most beautiful peninsulas…”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

Of the royal palace: “The roomes of it are lofty, with carved works on the seelings, the doores of each roome being so high, that a man may ride upright on horseback into any chamber or lodging.” Of the Great Hall: “It surpasses all the halls … that ever I saw, for length, breadth, height and strength of building.” Taylor the Water Poet, 1618. To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.

“We passed Bannock Burn, famous for the defeat of the English by the Scots under Robert the Bruce … the Scots were quiet for a year or two after.”
Richard Pococke, Englishman who became Bishop of Meath, and who toured Scotland several times between 1747-60  

To find out more see the places to visit section of the NTS website

	Castle Campbell “… seated on a steep peninsulated rock between vast mountains, having to the south a boundless view through a deep glen shagged with brush wood …” Thomas Pennant, 1772 To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.

“The castle stands on a brook, which is a great torrent in winter, and runs between rocks that a little higher are 50 feet high, adorned with trees and very beautiful.”
Richard Pococke, 1747-60

To find out more see the Cawdor Castle website


“The dungeon, called the Mas-more, is a deep hole with a narrow mouth. Tradition says, that a person of some rank in the country was lowered into it for irreverently passing this castle, without paying his respects to the great owner.”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.


“Passed over Culloden Moor, the place North Britain owes its present prosperity to, by the victory of April 16, 1746.”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

To find out more see the places to visit section of the NTS website


“From its natural strength, it was in former times deemed impregnable; so that the desperate but successful scalado of it in 1571 may vie with the greatest attempts of that kind …”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

“I never saw rock in nobler masses, or more deeply stained by time and weather; nor is this to be wondered at, for it is in the very eye of sea-storms and land-storms, of mountain winds and water winds.”
Dorothy Wordsworth, 1803.

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.

	Dunstaffnage Castle “It is built round the edge of an irregular perpendicular rock, with towers which are round within … it belongs to a Campbell, whose family have enjoyed it for many years.” Richard Pococke, 1747-60 To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.

“It is said to be one of the oldest castles in Scotland … they talk of this as built 200 years before Christ.”
Richard Pococke, 1747-60

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.

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“In an isle at the beginning of the lake is the castle of Kilchurn, which had been inhabited by the present Lord Breadalbane’s grandfather … but it is now a ruin, having lately been struck by lightening.”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

“The castle occupied every foot of the island that was visible to us, appearing to rise up out of the water; mists rested upon the mountain side, with spots of sunshine between; there was a mild desolation in the low grounds, a solemn grandeur in the mountains and the castle was wild, yet stately, not dismantled of its turrets, nor the walls broken down, though completely in ruin.”
Dorothy Wordsworth, 1803.

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.


“The style of the whole building is truly great, equally expressive of magnificence and a regard to security. It strength seems superior to what could have been necessary before the use of cannon; and its grandeur corresponds with the idea of it having been intended for a royal palace.”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.


“Here the king hath a fair palace, built castle-wise, well seated, so as it may command the whole town …”
Sir William Brereton, 1636, an Englishman who travelled round Britain and Europe.

“… a magnificent edifice, of a square form, finely seated above the lake. James V and VI ornamented it greatly. The inside is much embellished with sculpture.
“Within the palace is a handsome square: one side is more modern than the others, having been built by James VI and kept in good repair, till 1746, when it was accidentally burned by the king’s forces.”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.

Lochleven Castle “Loch-Leven, a magnificent piece of water … Some islands are dispersed in this great expanse … the most remarkable is that distinguished by the captivity of Mary Stuart, which stands almost in the middle of the lake. The castle still remains; consists of a square tower, a small yard with two round towers, a chapel, and the ruins of a building, where, it is said, the unfortunate princess was lodged … Some trees are yet remaining on this little spot; probably coeval with Mary, under whose shade she may have sat, expecting her escape at length effected by the enamoured Douglas.” Thomas Pennant, 1772 To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.

“the ruins of the church are of uncommon beauty; part is at present used for divine service, the rest uncovered; but every part does great honour to the architect …”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

“The Abbey has been built of a pale red stone; that part which was first erected of a very durable kind, the sculptured flowers and leaves and ornaments being as perfect in many places as when first wrought.”
Despite this she complained that within the ruins was the ugliest church she had ever seen.
Dorothy Wordsworth, 1803

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.


“The window is shewn out of which it is pretended that cardinal Beaton leaned to glut his eyes with the creul martyrdom of George Wishart, who was burnt on a spot below.”
Tells a lurid tale of how 16 conspirators got into the castle and murdered Beaton in revenge by transfixing him in his chair with their swords – “… he expired, crying, I am a priest! Fie! Fie! All is gone! He merited his death, but the manner was indefensible.”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.


“Near the east end is the chapel of St Regulas, a singular edifice. The tower is a lofty equilateral quadrangle, of twenty feet each side, and a hundred and three feet high.”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.


“About a mile hence is the castle of Spinie; a large square tower and a vast quantity of other ruined buildings, still remain, which shews its antient magnificence whilst the residence of the Bishops of Murray …”
Thomas Pennant, 1772

To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.

	Urquhart Castle Of a boat trip down Loch Ness: “We proceeded on our voyage and came on the north side to Urquhart Castle which belonged to the Cummins and was destroyed by Edward I.” Richard Pococke, 1747-60 To find out more see the places to visit section of the Historic Scotland website.